Saving Seeds & Setting Tables

An Interview with Chris Smith of the Utopian Seed Project on the Power of Seed Saving and Preserving Biodiversity

photo courtesy of Chris Smith

According to the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO), approximately 75% of the world's food is generated from only 12 plants and five animal species. This startling statistic underscores the importance of biodiversity for ensuring food security and resilience against climate change. In the face of such challenges, Organic Growers School (OGS) promotes sustainable agriculture by uniting a diverse network of farmers, educators, researchers, and advocates. Through workshops, conferences, and community events, OGS brings together food systems, climate resilience, seed saving, and regenerative farming experts, empowering growers of all scales to adapt to a changing climate and cultivate healthier, more sustainable landscapes.

Renowned advocates contribute to this mission by sharing their expertise on biodiversity, regionally adapted crops, and innovative food practices. OGS and its network of experts work together to build resilient communities and share knowledge from farmer to farmer and person to person, a vital strategy for preserving biodiversity, ensuring a sustainable food future, and addressing the effects of climate change.

Chris Smith, the director of the Utopian Seed Project, is one of the leaders at the forefront of this movement and a driving force behind the Appalachian Seed Growers Collective. Known for his love of okra and as the author of The Whole Okra, Chris has worked tirelessly to elevate this Southern staple while promoting broader seed-saving efforts. With his Trial to Table event on October 12 on the horizon, OGS caught up with Chris to discuss his work, dreams, goals, and insights for these groundbreaking initiatives.

OGS: What led to the creation of the Appalachian Seed Growers Collective?
Chris: The Utopian Seed Project is growing and trialing lots of interesting things, and we quickly discovered that when other people saw some of the things we were growing, they wanted to grow them, too. We recognized a need to supply regionally adapted seeds to local growers but didn’t have the capacity to be the supplier, and there wasn’t already a good local seed grower community in place. So, we decided to start up a collective of regional seed growers! 

photo courtesy of @appalachian_seed_collective

OGS: What seeds would you like to see more people growing?
Chris: The seeds that I would like to see more people growing are seeds that have been grown and saved in the South. I want people to grow whatever they love, but I think it’s really important for the seeds to have an opportunity to adapt to the environment they are expected to grow in.

OGS: What major milestones would you like to achieve for the seed collective at the 10- and 20-year mark?
Chris: I’d like to work towards a community seed processing facility so farmers can access seed cleaning equipment. I’d like to have sister-collectives across the southeast working towards their own regional seed goals. In time, I hope we’ll have a Southeast Seed Network where local initiatives can work together when it makes sense.

photo courtesy of  @utopianseedproject

OGS: What does a thriving food community look like to you, and how do we get there?
Chris: I find this question challenging. What is a food community? I think it’s everyone because everyone needs to eat. So we could just as well ask, how do we have a thriving community? And what role does food play in that conversation? I think a thriving community requires equitable, sustainable, and climate-resilient food and farming systems as a base minimum.  

OGS: What can people expect to experience at the upcoming Trial to Table event?
Chris: Our Trial to Table events are a chance for us to showcase our work in the fields through the hands of local chefs. There are so many varieties that we don’t generally get to experience and so many crops that could be grown locally but generally aren’t. So Trial to Table is really a celebration of the potential of our food system. We want people to enjoy all that the chefs have to offer but also engage with a deeper conversation about food and its connection to everything, including the challenges of climate change. That said, the events will always be food and flavor first. We need to know what it is we’re fighting for! 

OGS: What’s the most rewarding outcome of the Trial to Table events?
Chris: One of the things I love the most about Trial to Table is working with the chefs and challenging them to be creative with ingredients that they may not usually use. In the same breath, we’re challenging our participants to try something new. Our next event is focusing on Bitter Melon, which has great culinary culture in other parts of the world, but in general, strong bitters aren’t well appreciated by a more Western palate. It’s fun to engage with open-minded folks and inspire deeper conversations.

As the Trial to Table event approaches, it’s clear that the collaboration between farmers, chefs, and the community is vital to reimagining our relationship with food; the event represents more than just an occasion to enjoy meticulously prepared dishes. Trial to Table encapsulates the essence of sustainability, community, and the future of food systems. It’s a profound journey into the heart of our food's origins, from the seeds that give life to the tables where communities gather. It offers a platform for meaningful dialogue and is a showcase of the impact of the seeds that make it all possible.

Growers, foodies, farmers, inquisitive individuals, and community members alike are welcome to attend and discover more, regardless of their level of expertise. After all, planting the seeds of knowledge is how bigger movements happen. And just like Chris Smith, everyone has the potential to contribute to a better food system—one seed at a time.

** The upcoming Trial to Table marks the final event in this season’s special series, offering a unique opportunity to experience locally grown, climate-resilient crops transformed by talented chefs. Tickets are available on a sliding scale, ensuring accessibility for all, and can be purchased here. **