Dear Ruth,
I missed the first spraying (dormant oil) for my fruit trees. When should I spray them and what do I use? Do I trust any spray labeled “organic”? I have dwarf apple, peach, pear, plum, and nectarine trees and I live in Pitt County in Eastern NC. Thanks in advance for any advice on this matter.
~Gayle Morgan, Pitt County
Dear Gayle,
Talking about fruit trees is like opening a can of worms – it is a huge and complicated subject. Generally fruit trees are considered a higher maintenance adventure than other gardening endeavors, but the rewards are oh-so-sweet. Each fruit has its own special needs, and organic approaches to orcharding evolve every year.
Horticultural oils are used to smother insects and their eggs and to suppress overwintering diseases. Opinions vary about exactly when to spray dormant oil, and suggestions ranged from midwinter to late winter/early spring before the buds have begun to swell. Other recommendations were much more specific such as: when green tip is ¼ to ½ inch long (the buds are open at the tip and green is beginning to show).
In the mountains of North Carolina this usually occurs in February/March and probably earlier in Pitt County, NC. Lighter- weight horticultural oils (like all-seasons oil) may be sprayed anytime of year, using caution since sometimes the oil will damage plant leaves.
For horticultural oil to be effective, the oil must contact and coat the pest; complete coverage of the tree is very important, including the crevices/cracks in the tree’s bark and buds. Scale, mites, pear psylia, and aphids are some of the insects targeted by horticultural oil.
Oils should not be sprayed on plants when freezing weather is expected. Refrain from spraying during windy weather since much of your spray will be blown off course by the wind and will not end up on the tree. Likewise avoid rainy weather. If you spray just before a heavy rain, you will have to re-spray following the rain.
The spray you use should be mixed fresh each time you spray, so mix up only the amount you will use right then. Agitate the oil in your sprayer frequently so that it remains in suspension. You want a very fine mist of oil, not blobs. You will need one to two gallons of spray per 8-10’ tree when you are spraying dormant trees. If your trees are super-small, you could get by with a hand-held plant mister (your hand will cramp up pretty quickly if you have very much to spray). A two gallon pump sprayer works well in most garden situations. Be sure not to overfill past the fill line on the tank – or the gasket may blow.
I personally love using a backpack sprayer (3-, 4-, or 5-gallon), but they are a bit costly with about a $100 price tag. Having a sprayer with a wand is extremely useful for reaching into all the nooks and crannies and under leaves.
In lieu of dormant oil, organic orchardist Michael Phillips mixes up a concoction of diluted 100% neem oil with a tad of soap emulsifier, liquid fish, effective microbes, blackstrap molasses, and liquid kelp. On a warmish day, he thoroughly coats the tree and sprays the soil area in the tree’s dripline too.
Here is a list of a few OMRI Approved Oils. (Some may state restrictions for Certified Organic growers):
- Monterey Horticultural Oil (previously called SAF-T-SIDE): 80% mineral oil (92% unsulfonated residue of mineral oil) for control of fungal diseases, insects and mites. For year round usage-dormant and growing season. Use on most crops, including fruit and nut trees, vegetables, berries, ornamentals, grasses. Controls powdery mildew, mites, scale, botrytis, leafminers and more.
- Golden Pest Spray Oil – OMRI: 93% soybean oil. For Fruits, nuts, evergreens and woody shrubs. Controls mites, sooty mold, scale, whitefly, and mealybug.
- Bayer Advanced Natria™ Multi-Insect Control Concentrate – OMRI: 96% Canola Oil
- Concentrate Worry Free® Brand Vegol™ Year-Round Pesticidal – Oil – OMRI: 96% Canola Oil. For dormant and growing season use to control all stages of insects and eggs for roses, flowers, fruits, vegetables, houseplants, and trees.
- Ahimsa Organics Neem Oil *- OMRI: 100% Neem Oil. Note: This is pure, unformulated oil and is not registered for use as an insecticide, fungicide or for any specific herbal use. Use as an insecticide would need to be cleared with your certifier.
- Organic JMS Stylet Oil – OMRI: 97.1% paraffinic oil (superior grade white mineral oil). Used to control fungal diseases, insects and mites.
Note: ALWAYS check any product you intend to spray for suitability to your objective (does it target the pest you want to target?). Also check for safety precautions, mixing precautions, and general precautions – and follow the safety measures indicated on the product. Pesticide rules and organic rules change over time. Determine the current status of a product prior to use. Certified growers can check with their certifying agency.
Useful Links/Sources:
- Organic Growers School Spring Conference Library. For two different apple/fruit organic spray programs, check out Organic Growers School’s own online library – featuring topics presented at previous OGS Spring Conferences. Under Pest Management see Organic Pest Management of Apples by Elizabeth Brown, and under Commercial Farmers see Organic Apple Spray Program by Ron & Suzanne Joyner.
- Cornell fact sheet on oils – Click on this link and scroll down to see OMRI listed Petroleum, Plant, and Fish Based Oils.
- The Holistic Orchard: Tree Fruits and Berries the Biological Way by Michael Phillips, available from Chelsea Green.

Local Apples: Photo by Ruth Gonzalez
Other considerations for orchard health:
- Because of their smaller stature, dwarf (8-10 ft.) and semi-dwarf (12-15 ft.) fruit trees are easier to spray, prune, and harvest.
- Choose your location carefully – most fruit trees require full sun for good fruit production. Plant fruit trees halfway down the slope where they will enjoy good air drainage. Don’t plant at the bottom of a slope, or in frost pockets, where frost is liable to collect. In mountain locations where spring weather is sporadic, a northeast-facing slope makes an ideal orchard site – because northeast slopes stay cool longer in the spring and therefore the risk of frost damage is reduced.
- Prepare your planting hole well. Dig a generous wide hole, and plant your tree no deeper than it was in the pot. Backfill the hole with 50% native soil mixed with 50% compost. Soft rock phosphate, greensand, kelp and/or azomite can be added to the backfill as well.
- Water your fruit tree religiously for the whole first year and (after the first year) during dry periods. Water deeply to the bottom of the rootball. Most trees enjoy moist well-drained soil.
- Plant disease-resistant cultivars. Plant fire-blight resistant apples and pears.
- Check your pH. Ideal pH for many fruit trees is 6.5. Soil that is too acidic contributes to fire blight susceptibility.
- Don’t over-fertilize. Too much nitrogen produces succulent growth that is more susceptible to insects and diseases – such as fire blight.
- Employ good sanitation throughout the year. Pick up and dispose of fallen fruit. Rake up fallen and diseased leaves. Destroy diseased fruit, diseased branches, and diseased leaves (do NOT compost).
- Prune fruit trees regularly to maintain good air movement, and fruit access to sunlight.
- When fruit trees are in bloom, don’t spray insecticides since pollinators (such as honeybees) could be killed by the insecticide. I think it is always safer to spray oils very early or late in the day, so that the risk – of bee traffic and plant injury from sunburn – is minimized.
Gayle, not all organic products will be labeled OMRI, and restrictions apply to some OMRI-labeled products, but seeing OMRI on the label does help you quickly discern whether the product is considered organic. There is also an EPA label with three little leaves that reads “For Organic Gardening”. Click here for more information on the EPA label. Some companies, such as Seven Springs, label various products as NOP (National Organic Program) compliant.
Look for organic products in your local garden center/agricultural supply. If you cannot find the product locally, try Seven Springs Farm, Johnny’s Selected Seed, Peaceful Valley Farm Supply, or Harmony Farm Supply.
Best wishes,
Ruth
PS: Put the 2013 Annual OGS Spring Conference (March 9 & 10) on your calendar – this is our 20th year and cause for celebration!
Ruth Gonzalez is a former market farmer, gardener, local food advocate, and founder of the Tailgate Market Fan Club where she blogs at tailgatemarketfanclub.wordpress.com. In her job at Reems Creek Nursery, Ruth offers advice on all sorts of gardening questions, and benefits daily from the wisdom of local gardeners.
Ask Ruth © 2012 Ruth Gonzalez & Organic Growers School
Author: Ruth Gonzalez
Ruth Gonzalez is a former market farmer, gardener, and local food advocate who wants to see organic farms proliferate and organic gardens in every yard. She also served on the Organic Growers School Board of Directors. In her job at Reems Creek Nursery, Ruth offers advice on all sorts of gardening questions, and benefits daily from the wisdom of local gardeners.
Ruth, Is there a reason you omitted 5th Season in Asheville as a good source for organic products? -Pat
Hi Pat,
No, I simply said ” Look for organic products in your local garden center/ agricultural supply” with the idea of encouraging local purchases without having to individually name every single local garden center and agricultural supply (since there are quit a few). Fifth Season is a good source for organic products. Reems Creek Nursery also sells organic products, and I am sure all of our local independent garden centers carry a variety of organic products. The beauty of supporting a local independently-owned store – besides keeping your money circulating within your own community – is that the staff at these stores can be very knowledgeable about local gardening issues and a great source of information.
Hi i am looking for directions on when to spray the neem oil i bought but lost the directions what time of day should it be sprayed and . can it be sprayed when rain is due in the area.
Hi Kathy. It is best to retain the labels on all pesticide products because these labels include the safety precautions, application rates, and directions for use of the product – all important information that should be followed in detail. I suggest googling the brand name and title of the product to find the information sheet online. Here I googled Monterey 70% Neem Oil and found this info sheet.
Neem Oil should be applied very early in the day or very late in the day for 2 important reasons:
1. Neem Oil is toxic to bees that are “exposed to direct treatment”, so you want to apply Neem Oil when the bees are not active (spray when the bees are home in their hive and not visiting plants). Bees are early risers, so late in the day is more ideal. Avoid getting the Neem Oil on the plant’s flowers as an additional precaution for pollinator protection.
2. When applied in the heat of the day, Neem Oil could burn your plants. Apply early or late enough in the day that the sun’s rays will not burn the plant foliage.
If you can avoid applying before a rain, the Neem Oil will be more effective. Check the weather for the next few days. If it will rain today, but the next few days are clear – then wait to spray. But if you are fighting a disease and your rain-less spray window is small, I might choose to spray and hope it dries well before the rain starts – with the hopes of keeping the disease in check.
I suggest using a sprayer with a wand so that you can coat all sides of the leaves and plant completely when you spray. Good luck!
Hello
I just purchased my fruit tree a peach tree. When I brought it back from the nursery I noticed the soil was infested with ants. How can I get rid of them. I heard of the idea of mixing soap and water and pouring that into the dirt so that the ants will die but will the soap damage my roots or future fruit
Hi I have a Victoria plum tree and at present there are plums already.But the underneath of the leaves has white spots.each year I loose hundred or more plums.I wonder can I still spray something safe to save the plums please.
Thanks
Millie
Ruth, can I what can I spray my Apple and pear trees with once they start showing fruit? Is there something I can use throughout the growing season until the fruit is ready for harvest. My next question is how do I keep birds away especially bluejays? I do have netting if that is an option. Thanks for your help.
Shawn
Ah yes, ants are typically more fascinating to children with poking sticks than grown-up gardeners. I found this great article that covers the topic well and concisely. I, myself, favor diatomaceous earth (DE). You’ll want to get the food grade variety, which is not the same as the variety sold for swimming pool filters. I mix it with grape jelly as a bait. A tin can laid on its side provides protection from the rain. Caution, do not broadcast! Many years ago, I applied an organic slug killer as directed, only to find an earthworm graveyard from one end of my garden to another the next morning. That particular product turned out to contain DE.
With regard to bluejays, I have found that clipping frost blanket or row cover around my bushes minimizes bird grazing. At this point, my bushes are getting large enough for me to freeze as much as I need while they eat what they need. (I planted highbush and rabbiteye.) I have not clipped any blanket on them this year. Early in the season, when birds have not figured it out, I get the best crop. Also, berries can be picked with quite a bit of red on them and left on a cookie sheet or even in a bowl on the counter for a few days, and they ripen up just fine on their own. Hope this helps! Netting is ill-advised, as birds will injure themselves — getting their heads stuck in larger mesh, and their toenails snagged in smaller mesh. Either way, you can expect to find a dead or injured bird at some point.
Millie, we suggest sending some of your leaves with spots into extension for a diagnosis. This is usually a free service and it will help you figure out what’s going on and then come up with a safe and appropriate treatment plan. I would shy away from spraying while the fruit is ripening.
I live in Florida and just purchased a Mango tree and a Tangelo tree. I want to plant and care for Organic. Can you tell me best products for me. Spray and Fertilizer. I was searching for a Rosemary spray but am confused as to which one would be most suitable for my type trees.
Hi Lilly, OGS serves the Southern Appalachians, and unfortunately we don’t grow mangoes and tangelos here. However, I did find a library of resources called the Electronic Data Information Source by the Florida Cooperative Extension Service. They also have a database of faculty experts that you can search by area of expertise. Here are the search results for organic crop production experts. If I think of anything else, I’ll comment here. Thank you for your question, and good luck!
Have new Variated lemon tree. Some Leaves damaged by bogs. Some Blossoms started to open. Can I still spray with the neem oil? In Florida
Hey there, Wanda!
Neem oil insecticide is often a great solution if you are having problems with insects, mites, or fungi bothering your plants, especially if you don’t want to use harsh chemicals. Some blossoms are more sensitive to neem oil, but most will not be damaged. You can make a small amount of the solution and test spray it on a few blossoms before spraying the whole tree.
In a garden sprayer, you can mix one ounce of neem oil per gallon of water, mix well. Spray all plant surfaces (including undersides of leaves) until completely wet. When applied as a preventative, neem oil should be applied on a 7- to 14-day schedule according to the manufacturers of 70% neem oil. To control a pest or disease already present, they recommend an application on a 7-day schedule.
I hope this helps, good luck!